Articles and Interviews
A collection of most recent work
Artist in residence - Nicholas Riis
“I hope to pervert familiar forms, play with taboos, transgress the codes of good taste and the stereotypical by putting aside the traditional distinction between the functional and the aesthetic. I wish to unpack the complexity of a human relationship to objects, and the space in between.” - Nicholas Riis
Amsterdam based artist Nicholas Riis creates objects that fuel a contradictive perception of art.
These sculptural, well designed objects are a counter reaction to the explosiveness and categorisation of social media. His artful objects reject the general impression of art.
A story of ultimate collectables
Seeking a contradiction between the general perception of art and the fictional ability of an object, Nicholas’ source of inspiration is influenced by today’s digital era and the created sense of urgency collecting stories and things before they disappear.
“Stand-alone objects don’t fully exercise what I want them to do when in a white space or gallery.
I find it more exciting to post online than expose one of my objects in real.”
His search leads to a new summary of physical materials available in a variety of textures, colours and often familiar prints, creating an ongoing play with familiarity, delivering an undefined association with something known in the distance.
The importance of being able to relate is visible in each created sculpture by referencing something known. A person’s first response is powerful, followed by the complexity of something familiar in a new context, creating excitement.
“If art is ambiguous and open to more than one interpretation, art can be functional as well.
As an artist you shouldn’t know your direction. Making art should always be a consequence.”
Exercising the heritage of leather
Leather is figurative. Leather as the key material in his newly created objects, allow the viewer to enter a parallel world, inspired by true stories. The heritage of leather is embedded in every piece, having lived before, binds the physical object to the created fictional story.
Nicholas was introduced to ECCO Leather via their annual in-house leather event HOT-SHOP.
“I was inspired by its simplicity, craftsmanship and the factory itself. The event teaches you the craft and gives back the freedom to develop customised leather. It helps to understand the value of leather and how it is made. The more you know, the more excited you get as you learn you can really influence the look and feel. Working with leather is very difficult. You can only do it right once.”
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V.
Welcome the materials revolution
Challenging the perception of leather with the FSDX fused leather range.
Today, more than ever the opportunity ahead is the creation of new connections. We believe, in order to innovate, designers and technicians should work together, exchange knowledge, deliver upscaled quality design and closing the gap.
We take part in the materials revolution, aimed at continuously serving creatives and brands with the next innovative leather.
The timing is ideal to present leather innovation through collaboration and targeted education. Leather is revolutionary and by continuously challenging technology, we elevate its potential with the creation of new identities. FSDX fused leather challenges the traditional perception of leather, setting an example in unparalleled character.
Rethinking the perception of leather
The existence of leather as a part of the global materials history dates back to 2200 BC. Nowadays the perception of true leather quality is still measured by its incomparable resistance to wear and tear and its suitability to outerwear and footwear articles.
Without desire to overwrite our heritage, the future of leather and leather as a future material, deserves breaking with these associative boundaries. Zooming in on leather appearance, hand feel and functionality embedded in new expressions and elevated endurance.
Breathability, strength and adaptive workability
Leather fused with Dyneema allows unparalleled thinness and strength without losing true leather character. Leather fused with Canvas or raw silk brings a new definition of naturally embossed structures to leather.
Upscaled functionality
Fusing leather is creating a super-material. Deriving the creation of a new identity by taking the essence of powerful technical and natural materials and creating something new. Fusing leather and counter-materials pair unrefined strength and functionality by offering a new solution to the production of lined articles, resulting in light-weight, durable and unique design aesthetics. And most importantly, the positive effect on shortening production processes by the possibility of minimising necessary manufacturing steps.
A new original
The elevation of standards in the creative industry, demanding extended material performance and low environmental impact, starts with brands and suppliers collaborating, bringing technique and functionality to another level… >
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V. - Click > to read full article.
Stone Island 7319 Shadow Project
“The key take away to create this collection was the challenge to develop the fall winter ’020 – ‘021 Stone Island Shadow Project, mainly enquiring advanced 100% Indigo dyed materials. We choose to work with ECCO Leather for their knowledge, drive, focus and problem solving through technology.” - Carlo Rivetti, Creative director and President of Stone Island
Centralising the material research around the further investigation of Indigo adaptation to leather, True Indigo leather is created utilising a state-of-the-art garment dye tanning technology and oxidation technique. The indigo leather garments boast an extraordinary color result and uncompromised leather quality and appearance with an increased endurance level.
“ECCO Leather has developed a special indigo activating technique that promotes the oxidation process on leather with a unique colour look and depth. Subtle unevenness due to
varying adhesive properties of the Indigo to the leather surface are to be considered a feature. The indigo leather garments retain their own unique ability to patina over time.”
The contemporary Bovine Indigo leather is defined by unparalleled natural textures and distinctive colour depth, with subtle highlights of the natural leather character. Pushing the boundaries of classic leather appeal, ECCO Leather took inspiration from the intensely coloured garments that are dyed through and through after garment dyeing the finished look.
To create FSDX Dyneema® Indigo fused leather, ECCO Leather fused paper thin Bovine leather with Dyneema® before applying the final Indigo dip. Its unbelievable strength does not compromise the quality or true appearance of leather. Fusing leather with Dyneema® results in a newly defined leather texture under the influence of Dyneema’s ® recognisable fibre texture.
Inspiration to innovate
The creation of our Indigo coloured leather is inspired by the traditions of Japanese Indigo dying techniques. Its unparalleled colour depth is the result of the direct application of natural Indigo to leather.
Indigo is not water soluble and cannot be applied like traditional dyestuff to leather or fabric. Therefore we developed a special activating technique that accepts the oxidation process to leather when applying Indigo, resulting in our unique surface dyed look.
Indigo dyed leather characteristics
Our Indigo coloured leather is recognisable for its characteristic deep tonality and high light-fastness qualities. Achieving deepness in colour is depending on the number of times the leather is dipped into an Indigo oxidation basin. The result and iconic colour shows subtle unevenness due to varying adhesive properties of the Indigo to the leather surface, highlighting the leather’s natural character.
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V.
‘Welcome to DeusLand’ - Andrea Grossi
T
he project ‘Welcome to DeusLand' is a collection that talks about a future society and the future of human being. Andrea’s excitement to work with leather is expressed in his personal desire to become a conservator of Tuscanian leather tradition from the perspective of future innovation mixed with the heritage of leather making.
Growing up in Tuscany, Andrea feels passionate about renewing the culture of leather and craftsmanship. Taking part in the prestigious Hyeres festival, Andrea presented the extended version of his graduation collection ‘Welcome to Deusland’, bridging craftsmanship of denim and leather.
“I tried to combine leather technology and craftsmanship, combined with laser cutting, embossing and bonding to create modern and ground-breaking manipulation. I wanted to work with ECCO Leather because of their incredibly innovative approach to leather. This state of mind does not exist in Tuscany.”
Andrea’s collection showcases vegetable tanned leather in combination with sustainably aged denim, utilised through a technique called Wake wash. Working with visionary companies like ISKO and Tonello allowed Andrea to further explore environmentally responsible treatments. Wake is 100% sustainable using only organic and fully compostable raw materials. Applying denim treatments to vegetable tanned leather created a slightly shrunken look and subtle tan, without influencing the leather’s suppleness, entering the leather industry into the technical world of denim.
For Andrea, creating this look underlines the importance of taking responsibility as a young designer to work green and sustainably. He created his collection utilising the entire amount of leather provided, using every scrap of leather. No waste and multi-purpose design supporting both the quality and functionality of product.
“To innovate in a market of leather goods, you need to make a good design and holistically design all components of a product to become really sustainable. I wanted to work with ECCO Leather for their responsible ways of working and transparency as a leather innovator. The development of DriTan™ technology shows their future-forward approach to improve tanning processes. The need to break with the traditional way of developing and using leather is not a choice anymore but necessary.” … >
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V. - Click > to read full article.
Thriving in our outrage. An homage to the fluid and flamboyant. - Harris Reed
In the equivalent of a big show, shaped up and redefined to his own digital platform, Harris presented his graduation collection on the 22nd of May 2020. Seeking authenticity, challenged by pandemic times, his final presentation became the ultimate global introduction to the world of Harris Reed.
“Do we express ourselves because we are angry? Does outrage breed the outrageous? Without outrage for change, where does one find their strength to make a
push towards difference?”
Half-American, half-British Harris Reed designs to create conversation. Underlining the importance of gender fluidity and inclusivity, Harris redefined personal expression via the transformative power of clothing. The way he has worked towards the final presentation of his Central Saint Martin graduation collection was nothing less than the unconventional. A suit that fits Harris well.
“I was only able to make this work together with the help of 12 other individual creatives in total. Young people, fellow students, still unknown, willing to work together virtually – creating an escapism in crazy times.”
For Reed, fashion is truly revolutionary, playing a huge role in pushing the world to a more expressive and accepting place. His choice of digital presentation, allows him to share his personal visionary values, to help those seeking acceptance and self-love.
Fashion over art
Reed’s collection explores the idea of performance, opulence and self-expression as a daily ritual of our modern lives. Growing up with parents focused on education, Harris calls his collection’s reference to history accidental. “I feel inspired researching the evolution of masculinity and what it looked like back then. Frills, bows, and opulent decadence, without becoming a costume. These days we’ve flipped to fashion and identity revolving around what is called streetwear. With times changing and the definite need for change the way we approach each other, there’s a beauty and history thread to pull to today.
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Times are changing. Existing in an era of debate pushed Harris to think ahead, designing for the person of tomorrow. It seems people have grown to re-appreciate the originality and preciousness of it. The psychology of fashion, through what you put on your back is about making a statement, whether you know it or not, we live our everyday lives in it. When going to an exhibition you are prepared for what you’re going to see. There is safety in this. Fashion is something more unprepared. When I’m selling my clothing it’s something one of a kind you can feel fabulous in.” … >
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V. - Click arrow to read full article.
A waking from the dream of suburbia only to find a hunger for a life more daring - Paolina Russo interview
The collection of MA CSM Graduate Paolina Russo represents her dreams about life unknown and holds the spirit of a created wardrobe for the women she desires to become.
Growing up in Toronto, the accessibility of the fashion industry was bound to TV and internet. Being part of this industry, or even establishing a career in fashion she could only imagine.
Feeling inspired at the age of thirteen, Paolina activated a fashion blog where she created and highlighted her interpretation of trends by customising vintage clothing and posting images. The creative thread was picked up on by CSM students, who encouraged her to apply and take part in the fashion program.
At the age of seventeen she entered CSM, studying fashion, focusing on craftsmanship and artwork drawn and created by hand. Over the course of her education she developed a clear sculptural handwriting in her designs.
An athletic sculptural approach
The recognisable athletic features of her work, take us back to her roots. Paolina’s athletic background and love for suburban sportswear tie together a look that connects back to her experience with taekwando and martial arts growing up. Today, this childhood spirit influences her design, using the aesthetic and language of shin guard, protective wear.
The thought behind her artful approach to design is influenced by her background in sculpture and art. By using the technique of draping and moulage, a first design is created by collaging.
The versatility of leather
From a material perspective, leather fits the moulageing approach perfectly by its easily mouldable and stretch properties.
“The aim is to work with futuristic materials that carry a combination of nostalgia and versatility. Aspects of lightness, softness and mould-ability are an important contributor to the draping techniques I apply on the model.”
The introduction to ECCO Leather was one of shared experience, whilst studying at CSM and getting a close look at the possibility of working with ECCO Leather, via best friend Florence Lamy, who at the time developed her patchwork leather collection.
Playing with the leather’s firmness and soft touch properties, Paolina’s designs capture a sense of armour underlined by its chosen materials. Seeking contrast with this protective association of leather, the addition of knitwear lightens up each composition and transforms the total look into something powerful.
“Leather is a special material that holds a close relation to my personal experience with the variation of life and compliments my vision on working in fashion design with an artisan approach.”
As part of her education and graduation projects, she teamed up with Adidas, creating the repurposed sportswear project. This collaboration allowed her to explore the making of footwear, whilst entering a new athletic direction for adidas combining her desire to construct and moulage with the aesthetics of sportswear.
The continuation of her projects include a deeper dive into the possibilities of working with leather and a continuation of her collaboration with Adidas.
Article written in ref. to work at ECCO Leather B.V.